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Chess Genius and Topes de Collantes, Cuba

Topes de Collantes Cuba reveals waterfalls, hiking trails, rich wildlife, and culture. Discover nature, history, and local flavors in one journey

Mariana Ayón RV by Mariana Ayón RV
April 19, 2026
in Español, World Cultures
Reading Time: 11 mins read
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Topes de Collantes

Waterfall El- Nicho in Cuba in the jungle natioanl park. It is situated in Zapata Peninsula, Matanzas province, Cuba, Caribbean.

Topes de Collantes is located in central Cuba, in the Escambray Mountains, about 800 meters above sea level. It is a natural area made up of mountains, rivers, valleys, and caves in their pristine state. Thanks to its rich variety of endemic species, its beautiful waterfalls and cascades, and a unique microclimate that supports the growth of diverse trees and fruits, it is considered one of Cuba’s largest protected natural areas.

The residents of Topes de Collantes, together with local authorities, actively ensure the conservation and reproduction of the area’s natural species and resources. It has become an ideal natural park for relaxation and for fully immersing oneself in nature, as well as for hiking and mountaineering. It is a natural sanctuary that offers an escape from everyday stress and invites visitors into a different reality—a moment to breathe fresh air, take stunning photos, admire breathtaking views, and feel truly connected to nature.

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One of the features that sets Topes de Collantes apart, beyond its waterfalls and cascades, is its lush vegetation and endemic wildlife. Keep an eye out for beautiful Cuban birds such as the iconic tocororo, the national bird, whose plumage displays the colors of the Cuban flag: red, white, and blue. You may also spot parrots, hummingbirds, woodpeckers, and the sijú, among many other species that inhabit these landscapes.

There are numerous trails and hidden paths throughout this vast park. The most recommended and reliable for visitors is the Caburní Trail. Along its 2.5-kilometer route, you will come across small homes nestled in the forest, expansive coffee plantations, and abundant flora and fauna, all leading to the Caburní River. There, you will be amazed by an impressive 62-meter waterfall, set within one of the most important and beautiful settings in the area. Of course, you can also take a refreshing swim in one of the natural pools after the hike and the tropical heat.

Another option is the Hacienda Codina route, one of the most popular among visitors. Here, you will find a ranch offering medicinal mud baths, as well as spaces for yoga, an extensive orchid collection, the Altar Cave, and Lovers’ Island. The tour concludes at a natural viewpoint overlooking the Escambray Mountains, the Valley of the Sugar Mills, and the beautiful city of Trinidad.

There are also more challenging trails, but equally rewarding, such as the Ecological Trail and the Vegas Grandes trail, which ends at the Salto de Soroa waterfall. You can also visit La Batata, a scenic spot ideal for relaxation in its medicinal waters.

A Cuban Chess Genius: José Raúl Capablanca y Graupera

Cuban chess player who was world chess champion from 1921 to 1927

In Havana, Cuba, on November 19, 1888, his talent first emerged as he watched his father, José María Capablanca Fernández, play chess. On one occasion, at just four years old, he reproduced with remarkable accuracy a game his father had just played against General Loño. The young prodigy pointed out that his father had made an illegal move, which earned him a reprimand. However, to his father’s surprise, he replayed the game twice and, at the critical position, demonstrated again and again that the knight’s move had indeed been illegal. As a result, his father rewarded him upon turning five by taking him to play at the Havana Chess Club.

Not long after, in 1901, at only 13 years old, he competed in the Cuban National Tournament, achieving his first major success by defeating the champion Juan Corzo with a score of +4, -3, =6.

With the support of his patron Ramón San Pelayo, he began studying Chemical Engineering in the United States. However, his passion for chess led him to abandon his studies and instead spend his time at the Manhattan Chess Club. On the night of April 6, 1906, he won a blitz tournament there, defeating several opponents, including the reigning World Champion, the German Emanuel Lasker, who remarked: “You are a remarkable young man—you made no mistakes.”

Following a series of victories in the United States—including a win against American champion Frank Marshall, who greatly admired his talent and recommended him for a prestigious tournament in San Sebastián, Spain—Capablanca faced many of the world’s leading players. Some participants initially objected to his inclusion, citing his limited record in major tournaments, particularly the Russian Bernstein and the Latvian Nimzowitsch. Nevertheless, the judges ultimately accepted him. During the event, Capablanca faced both critics and defeated them brilliantly. He went on to win the tournament with a score of +6, -1, =6, surpassing renowned players such as Rubinstein, Schlechter, and Tarrasch.

In 1921, he claimed the World Chess Championship from Emanuel Lasker in a match held in Havana, with a score of +4, -0, =10.

After several years without losing a single game, he was eventually defeated by his great rival, the Russian Alexander Alekhine, who never granted him a rematch.

Capablanca passed away on March 7, 1942, at the Manhattan Chess Club in New York due to heart-related issues.

Recipe: Chicken Gizzards in Sauce 

Ingredients

  • 1 lb cleaned chicken gizzards
  • 1 medium white onion
  • 1 ripe medium tomato
  • 1 medium carrot
  • 1 medium green bell pepper
  • 3–4 garlic cloves
  • 1 small glass (100 ml) white wine
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp (5 g) turmeric
  • Oregano to taste
  • Black pepper to taste
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Salt to taste
  • Juice of one lemon

 

Instructions

  1. Soak the chicken gizzards in lemon juice with a little water for just over 30 minutes.
  2. After that time, rinse them well again, drain, and set aside.
  3. In a pressure cooker, add a drizzle of olive oil and place the chopped onion, carrot, garlic, and bell pepper (all previously peeled and washed). Sauté for a few minutes, then add the gizzards. Once they begin to brown, add the tomato, washed and chopped into small pieces with the skin on.
  4. Season with salt and pepper, then add the remaining spices and the bay leaf. Stir well and pour in the wine. Let it evaporate, then add enough water to cover the ingredients by about one inch. Close the pressure cooker, and once it starts to whistle, reduce the heat and cook for 30 to 45 minutes.
  5. After releasing the pressure, open the pot and keep the gizzards warm. Blend the sauce until smooth and creamy. Return everything to the pot or transfer to a saucepan over low heat.
  6. Serve hot with a side of avocado salad and cooked brown rice, or with a good loaf of whole-grain bread to soak up the sauce.

Enjoy! 

Genio del Ajedrez y Topes de Collantes, Cuba

Topes de Collantes

Topes de Collantes se encuentra en el centro de Cuba, en la Sierra del Escambray y a 800 metros sobre el nivel del mar. Se trata de un conjunto de montañas, ríos, valles y cuevas en su estado natural. Debido a la gran cantidad de especies endémicas, sus hermosos saltos y cascadas y un microclima ideal para el florecimiento de árboles y frutos varios, esta es una de las mayores zonas naturales protegidas de Cuba.

Los pobladores de Topes de Collantes, junto al gobierno de la zona, garantizan la conservación y reproducción de las especies y riquezas naturales del sitio. Este se ha convertido en el parque natural ideal para la relajación y el contacto exclusivo con la naturaleza, para el senderismo y el montañismo. Es un reservorio natural que aleja del estrés cotidiano y permite adentrarse en otra realidad. Es un momento para respirar aire puro, tomar hermosas fotos, estremecerse con las vistas y sentirse parte de la propia naturaleza.

Si hay algo que distingue a Topes de Collantes, además de sus saltos y cascadas, es la exuberante vegetación y sus especies endémicas. Esté bien atento para captar las hermosas aves cubanas como el simbólico tocororo, ave nacional que exhibe en su plumaje los colores de la bandera cubana: rojo, blanco y azul. Podrá contemplar, además, cotorras, colibríes, el carpintero, el sijú, entre tantas otras aves que revolotean por eso parajes.

Muchos son los senderos y entresijos de este gran parque. El más recomendado y fiable para los viajeros es el Sendero de Caburní. En 2 kilómetros y medio de recorrido encontrará pequeñas casas de pobladores en el medio del bosque, extensas zonas de plantación de café, abundante vegetación y fauna por doquier hasta llegar al río Caburní. Se admirará de la impresionante cascada, con una caída de 62 metros, presidiendo uno de los entornos más importantes y bellos del lugar. Por supuesto que podrá bañarse en alguna de las piscinas naturales para refrescarse del intenso calor y la caminata.

Otra opción es la ruta de la Hacienda Codina, una de las más visitadas por los viajeros. Aquí encontrará un rancho con baños de lodo medicinales, además de sitios para hacer yoga, una vasta colección de orquídeas, la Cueva del Altar y la Isla de los Enamorados. El recorrido concluye en un mirador natural desde donde se puede observar la Sierra del Escambray, el Valle de los Ingenios y la hermosa ciudad de Trinidad.

Existen otros senderos más dificultosos, pero igualmente interesantes, como el Sendero Ecológico o el de Vegas Grandes que finaliza en el Salto de Soroa. También puede conocer el paraje de La Batata, perfecto para un momento de relajamiento en sus aguas medicinales.

Un genio cubano del ajedrez: José Raúl Capablanca y Graupera

En la Habana, Cuba, un 19 de noviembre de 1888, su talento se inició viendo jugar a su padre José María Capablanca Fernández. En una ocasión, contando con tan solo 4 años de edad, reprodujo con una extraordinaria precisión una partida que su padre había terminado de jugar con el general Loño. El joven genio, le indicó a su padre que había hecho una jugada ilegal, lo que le valió una reprimenda, sin embargo, para sorpresa de su padre, reprodujo dos veces la partida y en la posición crítica, le demostró una y otra vez, la ilegalidad del movimiento de un caballo. De esta manera, su padre lo premió al cumplir 5 años de edad, llevándolo a jugar al Club de Ajedrez de la Habana. Poco tiempo después, en 1901, contando con tan solo 13 años, compitió en el Torneo Nacional de Cuba, alcanzando su primer gran triunfo, al derrotar al campeón Juan Corzo con un marcador de +4, -3, =6.

Con la ayuda del mecenas Ramón San Pelayo, inició sus estudios de Ingeniería Química en los Estados Unidos, sin embargo su pasión por el ajedrez, lo impulsó a abandonar sus estudios y en cambio pasó a frecuentar el Club de Ajedrez de Manhattan, donde la noche del 6 de abril de 1906, resultó vencedor de en un torneo relámpago, contándose entre los adversarios derrotados al mismísimo Campeón del Mundo el alemán Emmanuel Lasker, quién expresó: “Es notable joven, usted no ha cometido errores”.

Después de continuos triunfos en los Estados Unidos, entre los que derrotó al campeón Estadounidense Frank Marshall, quién admirado de su talento, lo recomendó para jugar un famoso torneo en San Sebastián, España, que tenía la mayoría de las celebridades del mundo, algunos de ellos, objetaron la poca trascendencia de triunfos en torneos importantes de Capablanca, especialmente objetaron el ruso Berstein y el letón Nimzowitsch, finalmente los jueces aceptaron su inclusión. El torneo enfrentó a Capablanca con ambos opositores, derrotándolos con brillantéz, finalmente, el torneo lo ganó con un marcador de +6, -1, =6, superando a jugadores como Rubinstein, Schlechter y Tarrasch.

En 1921 le arrebató el título de Campeón Mundial a Emmanuel Lasker en un match que se jugó en la Habana, con un marcador de +4, -0, =10.

Después de varios años de no perder una sola partida, al fin fue vencido por su gran rival el ruso Alexander Alekhine, quién nunca le concedió la revancha.

Capablanca falleció el 7 de marzo de 1942 en el Club de Ajedrez de Manhattan en Nueva York por problemas cardiacos.

Mollejas de Pollo en Salsa

Ingredientes

  • 1 libra) de mollejas de pollo limpias
  • 1 cebolla blanca mediana
  • 1 tomate mediano maduro
  • 1 zanahoria mediana
  • 1 pimiento morrón verde mediano
  • 3 ó 4 dientes de ajo
  • 1 vasito (100 mililitros) de vino blanco
  • 1 aceite de oliva virgen extra
  • 1 cucharadita ó 5 gramos de cúrcuma
  • Orégano al gusto
  • Pimienta al gusto
  • 1 hoja de laurel.
  • Sal al gustol
  • Jugo de un limón

Preparación

  1. Deje las mollejas en remojo con el jugo de limón y un poquito de agua durante algo más de media hora.
  2. Pasado ese tiempo, vuelva a lavar bien, escurra y reserve.
  3. En la olla de presión, añada un chorrito de aceite de oliva y coloque la cebolla cortada en trozos, la zanahoria, el ajo y el pimiento; todo pelado y lavado previamente, lo sofríe unos minutos y añada las mollejas. Cuando comiencen a dorarse agregue el tomate, lavado y cortado en trocitos con su piel.
  4. Salpimentar y agregar el resto de especias y el laurel. Remover y añadir el vino. Deje evaporar y a continuación cúbralas de agua un dedo por encima. Tapar la olla y cuando comience a silbar bajar el fuego y cocinar entre 30 y 45 minutos.
  5. Después de descomprimir, abra la olla y reserve las mollejas al calor.  Pasar la salsa por la batidora hasta formar una crema. Ponga todo de nuevo en la olla o una cazuela a fuego bajo.
  6. Servir bien calientes junto a una guarnición de ensalada de aguacate y arroz integral cocido, o una buena barra de pan integral para mojar en la salsa.
  7. ¡Y ya las tenemos listas para disfrutar!

Además de exquisita, es una receta económica y saludable, pues no tiene nada de grasa saturada.

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Mariana Ayón RV

Mariana Ayón RV

Mexican poet and writer. Interested in hispanic-latinamerican cultures. Settled in Mexico, she is currently studying a Master's Degree in History.

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